Infinite walls of gold that begin soon after the entrance of the State Hermitage Museum.

Stepping purposefully into the world of love and intrigue, treachery and treason, I wandered into the gilded halls of the Romanov palaces in St Petersburg. September, it appears, is the best month for visiting this once cultural capital of Russia. Despite the many overcast days, the sun breaks through sufficiently to warm my back as I amble through the manicured grounds before braving the ostentatious halls of the Romanov residences.

Peter the Great, a man well ahead of his time in both his vision and his indulgences, commissioned fortresses, palaces and fountains that outshone many European palaces of his time. A stroll through the many halls of the State Hermitage Museum (which also includes the Winter Palace) is an up close and personal experience with throngs of visitors who, after a lengthy wait in the snaking queue outside, are over-eager and over-awed by the ornate embellishments employed by esteemed architects such as Bartolomeo Rastrelli.

This white and green structure is imposing and commands much attention on the bank of the Neva. Grandeur and splendour is resplendent with every turn of wood, twist of marble and leaf of gold as the Romanov rulers sought to pursue glory and self-gratification in their lifetime.

Fresco ceilings above intricate wooden marquetry floors.

Sweeping stairway of gold and marble leading into the great halls of art.

Undeniably, we are grateful for Rastrelli’s genius but it would be callous to believe the serfs and peasants of his time would have been delighted at the announcement of yet another tax increase to fund yet another planned royal residence – employment opportunities notwithstanding.

I’m pleased I have experienced these marvels of human endeavour and as every convolution in my brain takes in the details, my heart is heavy with what feels like the weight of gold as I consider the common folk who laboured for little gain so those far more esteemed than themselves can leave for posterity such wonders for our gain.