Monument to Nicholas I at St Isaac’s Square.

Walk to St Isaac’s Square in front of St Isaac’s Cathedral, and you will stand amazed at this most impressive monument of Tsar Nicholas I astride a horse and dressed in his gala uniform.

Built by the French-born architect Auguste de Montferrand between 1856 and 1859 in honour of Emperor Nicholas I and his family, the monument rather accurately and most powerfully depicts the determined Russian ruler as a formidable military figure.

Nicholas I, third child of Tsar Paul I, was the reluctant ruler of Russia from 1825 to 1855.  When Nicholas’ brother, Alexander I, died childless and his brother Constantine (next in line to rule) died as well, Nicholas found himself suddenly pressured into assuming the throne. While ill-prepared for the role of Emperor of Russia, Nicholas I was well-educated as an engineer and had a stoic, single-mindedness that meant he became an oppressive ruler who was known for his policy of  “autocracy, orthodoxy and nationality”. During his reign, many wars were fought where Poland and Finland were brought under Russian rule. Unfortunately, his reign also culminated in the Crimean War of 1853 – 56 that saw Russia severely defeated by the combined forces of Britain, France and Turkey. Nicholas I died of pneumonia in 1855 although it is widely rumoured that he in fact had committed suicide by poison when he received news of yet another defeat of the Russian troops.

Today, the statue is engulfed in a melee of traffic and tourists even as it stands in the company of other prominent structures such as St Isaac’s Cathedral and the Admiralty at the Senatskaia Ploschad (Senatskaia Square).

Across the square, I spied the row of red awning that is so synonymous with the Astoria Hotel. While incongruous, the mix of ancient and modern testifies to how the world has moved on from the days of the Romanovs. And yet, this side by side existence of old and new declares just what a fascination these Tsars still hold for many locals and overseas visitors.